Kristopher Carpentier

In this video, we dive into a fake iPhone 14 Pro Max to see how it stacks up against the real deal. Is it any good? Does it have the dynamic island? Let’s find out. Stick around until the end to see me tear down this phone and examine its insides. #### First Impressions I bought this fake iPhone 14 Pro Max for $125, and the packaging looked surprisingly authentic. The text computer and experts serial number were spot on. A quick search revealed the serial number belonged to a real iPhone 14 Pro Max with an active warranty, indicating it was hijacked. Despite the box being a bit dinged up, likely due to shipping, it felt realistic.  Opening the box, the phone itself felt substantial and well-made for a fake. However, the SIM tray and buttons felt slightly off. The phone had a weird protector on the power button and two screen protectors, which was odd. Nonetheless, the phone felt heavy and nice, which is not something I usually say about fake iPhones. The external details, such as the lightning port and speaker holes, were almost identical to the real iPhone, except for the SIM tray. #### External Features Upon closer inspection, I found that one of the cameras was real while the other two were fake. They did an incredible job replicating these fake cameras, even blacking out the lighter sensor. Inside the box, we had the usual USB-C to lightning port charger and an instruction manual, although the font was slightly off. Booting up the phone revealed an Apple logo and an iOS 15 hello screen, which was interesting, considering the latest version should be iOS 16.  #### Real-World Usage Taking the phone outside, I tested the mic, camera, and speakers. The screen wasn’t bright enough for sunny conditions, a significant flaw. Comparing it to an 11 Pro, we found the fake iPhone 14 Pro had only one working camera, despite different zoom modes. The video quality was subpar, and the audio was mediocre. The software resembled a real iPhone but had noticeable differences, like the fonts and the no SIM card message. Widgets and settings were similar, but the maps app led to Google Maps instead of Apple Maps. Surprisingly, the battery health feature was present, although it’s doubtful it actually monitors battery health. #### The Dynamic Island and Internal Examination The dynamic island looked convincing, though the screen and camera quality didn’t match the real iPhone. It’s time to examine the inside of this fake iPhone 14 Pro Max to see if their claims hold up. They claimed an OLED display, a Mediatek 67XX processor, an 8-megapixel front camera, a 13-megapixel rear camera, and a battery capacity of 2000 to 2499 mAh. They also claimed a 90Hz refresh rate, which was clearly false. To open the phone, I had to heat it up since the two pentalobe screws at the bottom were just for show. Once heated, the back glass came off, revealing a bracket holding everything down. Inside, I found that only one camera was real, the others were fake. There was an oddly covered SD card slot, and the battery was hard-soldered, making laptop repairs sydney a nightmare. #### Comparisons and Final Thoughts Comparing it to a fake 13 Pro Max, alteration business there were noticeable improvements. The camera was larger, and the processor was indeed a Mediatek 67 series. The display was an LCD, not OLED, as indicated by the shadows around the edges. The battery had a 10.1 watt-hour rating, translating to around 2623 mAh, which was close to their claim.  Overall, the fake iPhone 14 Pro Max showed significant improvements over previous fake models. While it had a decent resolution and a surprisingly good build for a fake, the processing power and display quality were still lacking. The dynamic island feature was the highlight, though it didn’t perform as well as the real iPhone.  Thank you so much for watching. Be sure to leave a like, subscribe, and let me know what you want to see in the next video. See you later!

Samsung works hard, but fake phone companies work harder. This is the tale of a brand new fake S24 Ultra, a one-to-one copy that aims to mimic Samsung’s latest flagship device. In the past, these counterfeit phones have often surprised me with their quality and detail. In this video, we delve into a detailed side-by-side unboxing and comparison between the real S24 Ultra and its fake counterpart, exploring just how far the makers of the fake device went in replicating Samsung’s new AI features. #### Unboxing: Real vs. Fake Before even opening the boxes, a noticeable difference is evident: the fake phone box has a slightly grayer hue compared to the deep black of the real one. The text on the fake box is bolder and brighter, and computer repair business while the real box lists IMEI 1 and IMEI 2, the fake one merely shows "II." Interestingly, the IMEI numbers on the fake box do correspond to a real Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra, making it harder to distinguish based on this detail alone. Turning the boxes over, further discrepancies emerge. The fake box has some text along the seal that reads, "Do not accept if seal is broken," a detail absent from the real box. Additionally, the fake box features some amusing spelling mistakes, a hallmark of counterfeit products. One interesting test is weighing the boxes. Surprisingly, both the real and fake boxes weigh almost the same, indicating the counterfeiters put significant effort into replicating the real product’s feel. #### Inside the Boxes Upon unboxing, the differences become clearer. The real S24 Ultra uses paper for its protective layers, which can be easily ripped, while the fake uses plastic. Both phones look strikingly similar at first glance, but a closer inspection reveals a bubble on the back glass of the fake phone, indicating it hasn’t been properly adhered and is slightly lifting. Examining the contents of the boxes, the fake phone includes a USB-A to USB-C cable, whereas the real one comes with a USB-C to USB-C cable. The SIM ejector pins are slightly different, but this is a minor and hard-to-detect difference. The start guides also differ, but these can vary by region, making them unreliable for authentication. #### The Phones: Side-by-Side Turning on both phones reveals that the fake one uses an LCD screen, while the real S24 Ultra boasts one of the best displays on the market. The bezels on the fake phone are surprisingly similar to the real one, except for the larger bottom chin. The fake phone even copies the boot screen almost exactly, but there are subtle differences. Upon navigating to the settings, the fake phone claims to run Android 14, but clicking a few times reveals it’s actually running Android 7 (Nougat). The real S24 Ultra, of course, displays the proper Android 14 interface. Interestingly, the fake phone offers software updates, albeit very small ones. This is odd, considering it’s a device designed to scam people, yet it still receives updates past its initial sale. #### Camera and AI Features One of the main selling points of the S24 Ultra is its AI features, particularly in the camera. The fake phone’s camera setup appears convincing at first glance. However, by applying pressure with a spudger, it’s evident that most of the lenses are fake, made of plastic, with only the main lens being glass. Testing the cameras and microphones reveals the stark contrast between the two devices. The real S24 Ultra produces clear, high-quality images and sound, while the fake phone’s performance is notably poor. Furthermore, the fake phone lacks Samsung’s new AI features. For example, Samsung’s real S24 Ultra can use Google Lens for image search, but the fake one cannot replicate this feature. #### Internal Inspection Opening up the fake S24 Ultra reveals its true nature. The camera lenses are merely decorative, attached to a plastic bracket. The internal components, including the CPU and GPU, are far inferior to the real device. The fake phone uses a MediaTek 6580 CPU and Mali-400 MP GPU, both significantly outdated compared to the Snapdragon 8 Gen 3 found in the real S24 Ultra. The internal layout of the fake phone is also poorly designed. The main board is held down by screws that put pressure on it, a major design flaw. The battery is a 4500mAh unit, and the sub-board includes the SIM slot and charging port, labeled "SUB" (not to be confused with a plea to subscribe to a YouTube channel). #### Conclusion While the fake S24 Ultra is impressive in its attempt to mimic the real device, computer tips it falls short in critical areas such as build quality, screen performance, and internal components. The lack of genuine AI features and poor camera performance further highlight its deficiencies. This comparison serves as a cautionary tale: always verify the authenticity of a smartphone before purchasing, especially if the deal seems too good to be true. Counterfeit phones might look convincing, but their performance and reliability are nowhere near the level of genuine devices. Use this guide as a reference to avoid getting scammed and ensure you’re investing in a legitimate, high-quality

 the iPhone 13, but under the hood, Apple has made significant changes. Last week, I explored the iPhone 14 Pro and discovered its resistance to third-party repairs. THis week, I decided to tear down the standard iPhone 14 to assess its repairability and understand the new design changes Apple has introduced. I began by unboxing two international models of the iPhone 14 in vibrant purple and red. Both came without a charger or headphones, but they did include a SIM reader, something the US models lack. After setting up up the phones and ensuring they were functioning correctly, I heated one  of them on a heat plate for five  minutes to soften the adhesive before removing the pentalobe security screws and prying off the display. Opening the phone revealed an unexpected sight. Unlike previous models, the iPhone 14's internals were covered by a large section of aluminum, hiding most of the components. To get a closer look, I removed the display entirely, which was simpler than on previous iPhones, requiring only two screws and brackets. The next step was too heat the back glass, which also came off easily, revealing a modular and removable design. THis was a significant improvement over the iPhone 14 Pro and earlier models, which required lasers to remove the back glass. With the back glass off, I could see a familiar layout, but now the rear camera faced us form the other side. This design harks back to the first generation iPhone 4 and 4S. HOwever, despite the modularity, I wanted to test if the rumored software pairing of the back glass to the device was true. To do this, I needed to swap the logic boards between the two phones. Removing the logic board was trickier than expected. One screw was hidden beneath the earpiece, requiring me to disassemble additional components. THe camera cable was held down wtih adhesive, but once freed, I removed the dual cameras and finally extracted the logic board. Interestingly, the iPhone 14 uses the A15 processor from the previous year's model, but its internal design has significantly changed, featuring connections on the back for easier display removal. I performed the logic board swap between the two phones, taking care to install the display before reconnecting the battery to avoid any potential risks. UPon booting, both phones displayed error messages indicating indicating taht some parts might not be genuine. These messages were similar to those I encountered wtih the iPhone 14 Pro, which disabled functionalities like True Tone, auto-brightness, battery health, and Face ID when certain parts were replaced. To test the rumor about the back glass being software linked to each phone, I found that wireless charging and the flash worked fine without triggering any anti-third party repair messages. However, replacing the front front cameras resulted in errors similer to those on the iPhone 14 Pro. Interestingly, reinstalling iOS 16.0 fixed the front camera  issue, but portrait and  cinematic modes remained non-functional. Despite these software hurdles, the iPhone 14's design made it more modular then it’s predecessors. However, this modularity didn't  translate to repairability, as Apple's software still penalizes third-party repairs. For example, replacing the display disables True Tone and auto-brightness, auto-brightness, a new battery disables battery health, and a new front camera breaks Face ID, portrait  mode, nad cinematic mode. Additionally, replacing the logic board triggers all these penalties. In terms of repairability, iFixit iFixit rated the iPhone 14 a 7 out of 10, but I disagree. While its the most modular iPhone to date, the software restrictions make it less less repairable. Comparatively, Samsung phones, which iFixit rates lower, are easier to work on and dont suffer from the same software issues. Finally, I reassembled both phones, using modified adhesive strips to secure the battery and reattaching all components. Despite the modular design, the software penalties remain a significant barrier to third-party repairs, emphasizing the need for the right to repair. This journey through the iPhone 14 teardown highlights Apple's continued efforts to control repairs nad maintain theyre ecosystem, impacting consumers' choices and computer repair services price options.

Hi, Simon here. I hope you're doing well. In this video, I'll guide you through the process of replacing the touch screen on an iPad 8th generation, model A2270. If you need to check your model, turn your iPad over and look for the model number on the back. This guide is also applicable for models A2428 and A2429. ## Safety First Before starting, make sure to wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from any flying glass shards during the repair. This is crucial as the broken glass can be sharp and dangerous. ## Tools and Materials Needed 1. Heat gun or hair dryer 2. Metal and plastic prying tools 3. Double-sided adhesive tape (2mm and 3mm) 4. Super glue (for the home button bracket) 5. Scissors 6. Phillips screwdriver 7. Tweezers You can find all these tools and the replacement screen on Amazon or eBay. Links to these items are provided in the video description. ## Step-by-Step Instructions ### 1. Power Off the iPad Start by turning off the iPad. Press and hold the top power button, then slide to power off.  ### 2. Heat the Screen Use a heat gun or hair dryer to warm up the edges of the screen. This softens the adhesive holding the glass. Move the heat gun constantly to avoid overheating any one spot, which could damage internal components like the LCD, battery, or logic board. ### 3. Remove the Broken Screen Once heated, use a metal prying tool to gently lift the glass. Insert a plastic prying tool to keep the glass separated from the adhesive. Be careful around the bottom edge where the home button and Wi-Fi antenna cables are located.  ### 4. Detach the Home Button Carefully lift the home button cable, making sure not to damage it. This cable will be transferred to the new screen. The home button includes the Touch ID sensor, online fax service which is essential to keep if you want to retain the Touch ID functionality. ### 5. Cut the Flex Cable To make the removal easier, cut the flex cable of the broken screen. This allows you to remove the glass and work in a cleaner environment. ### 6. Remove the LCD Peel off the black tape covering the screws at the corners of the LCD. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws. Lift the LCD at a 90-degree angle and remove the three screws securing the LCD bracket. Disconnect the LCD screen cable. ### 7. Clean the Surface Check for any remaining glass shards or adhesive on the iPad frame. Clean the surface thoroughly to ensure the new screen sits properly. ### 8. Apply Double-Sided Adhesive Tape Apply 2mm double-sided adhesive tape along the sides of the iPad frame and 3mm tape at the top and best online backup bottom. This will secure the new screen in place.  ### 9. Install the Home Button Attach the original home button to the new screen. Use super glue to secure the bracket, ensuring it provides proper support when pressing the button. Adjust the bracket position until the button clicks smoothly. ### 10. Connect the New Screen Reconnect the digitizer cable and LCD screen cable. These connectors should snap into place without forcing them. Ensure all connections are secure. ### 11. Reattach the LCD Reinstall the LCD screen by aligning it properly and securing it with the screws and bracket.  ### 12. Test the iPad Power on the iPad to ensure everything works correctly. Test the home button and touch screen functionality before sealing everything back together. ### 13. Seal the New Screen Peel off the protective film from the adhesive tape and best online backup the new screen. Align the new screen with the iPad frame, pressing down gently to secure it in place.  ### 14. Final Checks Press down firmly along the edges of the screen to ensure a good seal. Do a final check of the touch screen and home button to make sure everything functions properly. ### Conclusion Replacing the touch screen on an iPad 8th generation can be challenging, but with patience and the right tools, it’s manageable. If you found this guide helpful, please like the video and subscribe to the channel for more repair tutorials. If you have any questions, feel free to comment below. Check the links in the description for tools and replacement parts. Thanks for watching, and take care!

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